Like many a restaurant success story these days, Avery began as a pop-up before taking up brick-and-mortar residence. Its ambitious menu pays homage to the chef’s prior experiences at some of the city’s more elite kitchens: elements of smoke, for instance, are a signature move as is the influence of Eastern Asian cuisines. Grilled oysters, served with seaweed, ramps, spring peas and Meyer lemon, are beloved by all, as is the A5 Wagyu fat topped with a sweet-smoky barbecue sauce, crème fraîche and golden osetra caviar. The narrow ground floor offers the more impressive menu, while the mezzanine offers a concise tasting. Walls smeared with blue-and-white paint, oversized wooden tables and modern music give the space a youthful yet refined vibe.